Hiroshima and Himeji

We leave for Ise/Toba in a few so this will be short.

Yesterday we went to Hiroshima. Becky wanted to see the Peace park. There really isn't much I can say to those who haven't been there. Just go.



This trip has been full of surprises. When we arrived in Himeji it was really busy. We didn't think much of it until we hit the castle. It looked like a holiday. We found out that the National Sweets Exposition was being held there. Big crowds. I'm glad we got there late or we wouldn't have been able to move. The only disappointing note was that all of the big crowd barriers where in place so we couldn't wander freely. Still, it was a nice change from Hiroshima and everyones spirits were lifted.

Arashiyama

Today was new for everyone...except me. As I mentioned yesterday, we decided to go to Arashiyama today. And we managed to hit every place on out list except for Diakakuji. I have so many photos I had to switch cards after Ryoanji. So with no further ado, off to our tour.

To day we started early. we left the hotel about 8 and headed for the local train to Arashiyama. For those thinking of going there take the JR west platforms 32 or 33. Since the train leaves off in the middle of the neighborhood (I take us to the most exciting places) we had to walk a bit to get to Tenryuji. I thought I should get everyone oriented so we headed out to the bridge.





After playing there for a few minutes we decided that we'd go to Tenryuji, the Bamboo forest and back to the main drag for some shopping and lunch.

Tenryuji is a temple complex with wonderful gardens.



The main garden goes around to the back of the temple and you can exit out of the north side into the Bamboo groves. The main path takes you up the side of the hill to the back gate and then brings you back to the pond and out through the main gate. The flowers were in bloom here as well. Although the rhododendrons are starting to die out. There is even wildlife.



After a bit we wandered out the north gate and headed into the forest. I hope that my shot giv you some idea what it was like. The bamboo stretches up to 40-50 ft and goes back as far as tou can see...not that that's very far :)





The new shoots are coming in and are about 12" around and grow very fast. They start out black and loose their outer leaf as the grow. A guide was explaining that they have to watch out under some of the houses because the shoots can push through the floor and roof it not caught in time.



We wandered back to the river and then down to the bridge for lunch and shopping. And then we headed out to Ryoanji. We decided to skip both Diakakuji and Ninnaji this time around. Although may go back and see them on my own at the end. I think I'd like to get to the Imperial palace on this trip as well.

As we entered Ryoanji I noticed something was off. The pond had been drained. It looked like a big mud hole (ok, it was a big mud hole). Looks like they were repairing something on the upper side.



Still, the main attraction is the Abbots garden.



This is supposed to be the best example of a dry landscape garden. It's neat, but unlike those who do little more than gaze rapturously at a pile of rocks (no matter how pretty they are) and try for enlightenment (along with a hundred or so tourists around) I was done after about 5 minutes.

Maybe I'm too cynical but enlightenment can't be attained by staring at a bunch of rocks. Get a teacher and a life folks. From all I've read an been told, the only way to get enlightened is to study, study, study and push yourself. Sorry, rant off. I guess there's something about some of the people who go to this place that sets me on edge. It would probably be best then if I don't go there again :)

So, cynicism well in hand we went on to Kinkakuji. This time the Iris' were in bloom. I don't know what is is about his place, but every time I come here it gets better. Maybe next time I'll try in fall or winter. I'll just let the photo tell the story here.



When we left Jo decided she had had enough for one day and headed for the barn. The rest of us decided to visit a calligraphy shop near the Fujita and to stop at a Hirishimayaki bar we'd found in the Teramachi.

The Hiroshimayaki place is called Takeya and it's address is ... in kanji. Crap. Well, lets make it simple, Just circle the The Teramatchi and look for the food stand with the vacuum packed turtles and turn in there. Alternately, you can enter the Teramatchi from the Fujita hotel side and turn left toward the Police office. Or you can wait until I can get someone to translate it :)

The place sits a dozen along the bar which is really one big griddle. It really is a locals type place but they have been very welcoming to us and even have a rudimentary English menu. The food is fantastic. There are few places here I would go to twice or more in a trip. This is one I'd do again.

I'd bore you with the details of the trip back to the hotel but I really don't want to type them out. So you'll just have to imagine it :)

Tomorrow will be an early day for Mark, Becky and I. We're going to Hiroshima and Himeji while Jo takes a day off to go shopping before we go to the Pearl place on the coast.

Later.

P.S. I just finished the first cut of todays photos. 104. You guys get 12. And I don't think I want DSL. Upload speed sucks.

Wiped out

Today is our first whole day in Kyoto. So we decided to take the 100 Raku tourist bus towards Ginkakuji. Since we figured most places wouldn't open until 9 we left about 8:30ish.

Our first stop was Sanjusangen-do. It was established in 1482. The temple houses 1000 Kannon (statues of Buddha) and the most complete set of 28 deities in the world. The statues where made between the 12th and 14th centuries. The work is incredible. The expressions are so real it seems that they could come to life at any time. Even the eyes are made from crystal.

You'll have to look up official photos since there is no photography inside the hall.

Some of you have probably heard about the archery that takes place on the porch. Well, it still does.



I finally figured out which end they used because of this:



The record is something like 18000+ shots and 13000+ hits in 24 hours. When you see the porch and realize the low arc that must be used...Well, I couldn't do it:) And to really get a feel for it pace off the 120 meters length of the porch....

Our next stop would have been Kiyumizu. But we decided to skip it today and go to Heian shrine. Yeah, I know that I was there last week. Still, Becky hadn't seen it and Jo hadn't been there in 7 years. I sometimes forget what a difference a week makes.





With the Iris' and lotus blooming and nobody there it was a completely different place. I think we took over an hour to stroll through the garden. It was rejuvenating. Especially after the crowds everywhere else.

When we finished Mark and I took the ladies to see the Budo center and Butokuden. from there we just had to go to Meirin and Tozando. Since Mark and I had already been there we let Becky and Jo have at it.

About now we decided to have lunch and to head to Ginkakuji and maybe to even try for Kinkakuji. (although we pooped out and made an early day of it)

Unfortunately for us the Kannonden (2 storied building in all the photos) was being renovated. It was kinda neat to see the structure of the building but a bummer for taking photos :)

Still, there is always good photos to be taken there.







So we finally ended up going back to the station and raiding the basement of Isetan for food. One small surprise has been the price of food. The average price for a meal 3 yeas ago was about 1200 yen. Now it's closer to 1600. Makes a bit of a dent in the food budget.

Oh, Mark just gave me reindeer droppings. So it seems I still get feed crap over here as well ;)

I'm working on the review of the hotels. Everyone has input. So probably tomorrow. After we go to Arashiyama, Kinkakuji, Daikakuji, Roanji and the Teramachi.

Kyoto again

We're back in Kyoto. It was a short day today. We caught the 11 am train (had to sit in unassigned seating). Arrived here around 1:30 and checked into the hotel.

On a side note. I should probably write up the pros and cons of each hotel.

We decided to go to Kiyumizu dera to get everyone acquainted with the bus system. It worked well and it was pretty crowded there. The light was better for photography but between the gray cast to the sky and high contrast, scenics are pretty blown out.




This was the only shot really worth a damn.

Tomorrow will be here in town hitting familiar places for all of us except Becky.

I'll add some photos before bed. See you all tomorrow.

Karma

Today we left Toyama for Kanazawa. We caught an early train and left our bags at the hotel. We decided to head for the Castle and the Kenrokuen. We did take our umbrellas since it had clouded over during the night.

Along the way we turned into the Omi-cho market.

We saw more different kinds of fish there than I expected. Including one that was about 5' long with a 2' head. Weird looking sucker. Looked like a huge pipe fish. Jo said that it's the most fish she's seen since she was on Fishermans wharf in San Francisco. I saw at least 20 different fish and more than 10 different molluscs for sale. It really was a pretty neat place. Becky complained that our hotel didn't have a stove :) I can't blame her because I was thinking the same thing.

The first thing we noticed about the Kenrokuen was that it was crowded. Since it is one of the final days of a holiday weekend we shouldn't have been surprised. We decided to take an hour and a half and wander separately through the garden and get lunch after.

The garden is as beautiful as ever. It's rated as one of the top 3 in Japan. Personally I rate it in the top 10. I can easily think of half a dozen that are better. Himeji Kokoen, Okayama kokoen, Nomura Samurai house, Heian jingu, well, you get the point. Still, even with the crowd it was worth going to.





After lunch near the bridge at the entrance, we headed over to the castle. Everything was open today. We wandered through the gate and over to the reconstructed gate and wall. We went all through there. They did a fantastic job of the reconstruction. What really impressed me was the way that they managed to fit modern necessities into the old plans.




While talking to one of the Docents I asked about an large area of construction. it seems that they are slowly reconstructing portions of the old complex from the original plans. This time it is the second gate (I think that's what it was called). She said it would be done in 2 years.

Now comes the explanation of the title. When we were finally ready to leave for the Ashigaru house, it started to rain.

I guess some of you may not know the story. Last time we were in Japan. A group of us came to Kanazawa for a day trip out of Kyoto. The closer we got to Kanazawa the heavier it rained. It was clear when we left Kyoto. So once at the station most of us opted to buy umbrellas from a stand Erik found. Except for Mark. He decided to spend the last of his cash on hard cider.

Needless to say we were a bit hard on him. But we did let him share...mostly. At one point we separated and agreed to meet outside the castle. Marks group wandered about a bit. Then it happened. A nice lady took pity on our bedraggled compatriot and graciously gave him her umbrella. It was a pretty blue with pink flowers. You can imagine what happened after that. I'll cut the story a bit short and say that Mark tried to abandon the umbrella in Hiroshima. Didn't work. It followed him to the states where it reside until this trip. Karma demanded that he return the umbrella to a lady in need, in Kanazawa, in the rain.

Funny thing was, no one at the castle wanted it :) Mark couldn't get anyone to take it.

Finally we headed out to Ashigaru house. And lo and behold, Jo needed an umbrella. So Mark lent her the umbrella to get where we where going.

(On a side note, Ashigaru house had both buildings open this time. It still amazes me that they're so small)

Finally we headed back through the city to the hotel. As we reached the station we looked behind us to see Jo holding the umbrella...turned inside out. A swirling gust had caught the umbrella and turned it inside out. Completely destroying it.

Karma. Has an odd sense of humor ;)

Lastly for dinner tonight. Mark, Becky and I went out and had sushi at a local restaurant. It was as good as Sushi Ota. May even have been better. Mark found a new dish. Raw squid.



Well, that's pretty much it for now. Tomorrow is back to Kyoto for the rest of our stay. See you then.

Takayama still...

Earlier I spoke about our bit of miss timing this morning. It ended up being pretty cool. We couldn't take the express train so we hopped the local. Jo and Mark got a real blast from it. It was their first time :) It ended up being crowded. Took about 2 hours to get there with 1 change.



Once there we decided to grab a quick lunch so we headed across the street to a curry shop. We walked in and I noticed that it was a bit different from everywhere else we'd eaten so far. It seems there are restaurants where you walk in, buy a ticket, give it to the waitress, and then get what you paid for.

Kinda like the old automats (for you old timers out there).

I'd heard about them from some of the Japanese students at the dojo. This was my first time seeing one.



After lunch we planned on going to the Hida Folk village and the Tea ceremony museum. Long story short, we only made the Folk village. We ended up spending about 3 hours there and I think we could have easily spent all day.



Hida village is a cluster of 12 farmhouses from the Hida region. All of them were brought here to save the cultural value of the properties. It seems that once electricity became common, lots of folks left for the cities. At the same time, entire villages where being submerged under reservoirs. So, in an effort to preserve the fast vanishing houses, the village was formed. About 35 buildings where moved here from various areas. The oldest ones are from the 1600's.



When I come back I think I'll be spending a lot more time here :)



I think it's time for a bit of a personal update. Everyone is doing well. Other than missing fresh veggies that is. Both Mark and I are nursing injuries from the Butokusai. Somehow I ended up with 2 high ankle sprains and both knees where tortured on the first day because I forgot my kneepads (hardwood floors everywhere). All the walking and moving around really slowed down the healing process. But the swelling has resided and both Mark and I are moving easier.


Oh, before I forget. Becky wasn't with us today. She was out playing with her cousins :)

Thats it for now. tomorrow - Kanazawa.

P.S. Looks like rain tomorrow. Maybe Mark can fulfill his karma from the last trip :)

P.P.S. I've started to add photos to the old posts. Check them out :)

Suprise

Well, I've got an hour to kill so I figured I might as well post again. It seems that the last morning express train from here left at 8 and the next local train leaves at 10:20.



So, when I last left you we were in Takayama. The trip here required us to take the Shinkansen to Nagoya and to then catch a local express. The local train runs next to a river gorge (the name escapes me) and is very scenic.



Yesterday we spent the whole day wandering the town. We hit the morning markets, Takayama Jinya, The City Museum, Yoshijima Heritage house, Sakurayama Nikko Hall, and the Festival Floats hall.




As we went back and forth we wandered through the Sanmachi and Shimoninomachi Preservation areas. Imagine, if you will, streets as they were 200 years ago. The only real difference was the cars and the blacktop roads (instead of dirt).



I wish we could have gotten rooms here over the weekend. But since it's Golden week, and Takayama is a resort town, we were forced to Toyama. Still, we're going back in a bit :)

That's it for now. I'm going to try to get some photos uploaded before we have to leave.